The neon arch over Virginia Street says Reno is ‘the biggest little city in the world’ – and it’s not wrong. The city is a mini Vegas –casinos, sports bars and cocktail lounges squeeze into a downtown area barely two miles wide.

Gambling is the city’s main attraction, and you couldn’t visit Reno without dropping into one. Every resort makes a major effort to offer crazy themed bars. TV screens in the ceiling, gambling at the bar, firepits on the rooftop or fake square-dancing halls are all normal fare in Reno.

From burlesque to boxing, circus to country music, it’s worth casting an eye over the listings before you visit. International pop concerts are a weekly event and you never know who’ll be in town next.

Downtown, you’ll find Harrah’s, El Dorado, Sands Regency and Silver Legacy around North Sierra and North Virginia Streets. Harrah’s is the original Reno casino, while Sands has the biggest pool complex in the city – Silver Legacy has the city’s only specialized rum bar and El Dorado has its own award-winning brewpub.

Peppermill Resort is further out down South Virginia Street while the Grand Sierra Resort, the largest, is near the highway and Reno Airport. Peppermill is a high-end venue with outdoor terraces and a popular nightclub, Edge. The Grand Sierra has a number of bars, including a self-service wine bar – very handy! – but pool parties are their specialty.

When you’ve finished drinking the ‘comps’ (complementary cocktails) or you run out of money it’s time to stop sniffing around the slot machines. Between North Arlington Avenue and North Sierra Street you’ll find a number of cocktail lounges, bars and clubs full of Reno residents and college students from the University of Nevada Reno. The atmosphere is fun, the drinks are poured fast and it’s a damn sight cheaper than the resorts.

Another good way to meet the locals is in South Virginia Street’s rowdy sports bars, pubs and strip clubs, which feel a thousand miles away from the clean, fake casinos. But remember – just like cowboys, Renoites are notorious hard-drinkers.

The little city can feel a bit limiting when you’re down on your luck. So stop trying to beat the house – the safest bet in Reno is the nightlife!